Straw wattles help to stabilize slopes by shortening the slope length and by slowing, spreading and filtering overland water flow. This helps to prevent sheet erosion as well as rill and gully development, both of which occur when runoff flows uninterrupted down a slope. Stormwater runoff carries sediment and seeds off slopes as it gathers velocity, but Straw Wattles capture that sediment and hold it on site enabling seeds to settle and germinate, aiding the revegetation process.In addition, by filtering overland runoff and holding sediment on the slope, Straw Wattles help to protect lakes, ponds, rivers and streams from sediment pollution. They can also be used at perimeter areas of lots and construction sites as a sediment control method.
The wattles imitate natural stabilization by reducing rate of flow, absorbing water and filtering sediment runoff. By trapping silt and seed, the wattles allow native vegetation and brush to begin to revegetate and restore root integrity within one year. Stabilization of the hillside will eventually transition to the reformed growth as the Wattles decay. The wattles also form a durable containment area to prevent polluted runoff from reaching surface water.
Rice Straw Wattles replace Silt Fences, Sandbags, and Straw Bales with a natural, earth-friendly, weed-free solution.
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Winterizer Fertilizer - Is It Just a Marketing Ploy?
This time of year, the first thing you see when you walk into Home Depot or Lowe's are several different bags of "winterizer" fertilizers. Advertisements make big promises about winterizer fertilizers, but do they really deliver? This article covers the most important details pertaining to fall fertilizing and whether or not you should buy one of these winterizer fertilizers.
Winterizer Background
The Scotts® company single-handedly developed a niche in the fertilizer business known as "winterizer". According to Webster's Dictionary, the word "winterize" means to prepare for winter. Scotts® has really branded "winterizer" fertilizers and even had the name trademarked. Initially, Scotts® was denied by the Trademark Examining Attorney, but an appeal reversed the decision. Scotts® now uses the name Scotts® Turf Builder® WinterGuardT Fall Lawn Fertilizer for their product. As far as I know, this is the same as their original winterizer. The company carries more than 60% of the U.S. fall/winter fertilizer market, which makes Scotts® the most popular brand in the U.S.
What's the Difference?
scotts winterizer fertilizer bag
Scotts® WinterizerT
Fertilizer bags always have three numbers printed on the front which represent the percentage of the major active ingredients in the bag. They are always listed in this order: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A common lawn fertilizer formula is 29-3-4, which means the bag contains 29% nitrogen, 3% phosphorus, and 4% potassium. Winterizer fertilizers are essentially regular fertilizers with more potassium and slightly less nitrogen. Scotts® WinterGuardT has a formula of 22-3-14.
What Does It Do?
Potassium plays a big part in winterizing because it has been shown to improve cold tolerance and enhance the root systems of turfgrasses. Because lawns use nitrogen more than any other nutrient, winterizers still provide plenty of nitrogen for late fall even though "winterizer" is usually associated with potassium. Some experts believe that the winterizer application is the most important fertilizer application of the year. The extra benefit occurs because the roots absorb and store the nutrients as they grow until the ground freezes. Those nutrients are then available when temperatures warm in the spring for a quick green-up. Grass plants store up energy (or carbohydrates) in the fall for two main reasons. Blade growth slows down and less transpiration (or evaporation) occurs due to cooler air temperatures, but photosynthesis is still occurring. Scotts lawn care recommends a winterizer application can encourage grass plants to store more energy in the fall because temperatures are lower and blade growth is minimal. So, the intent of a winterizer application should be to provide nutrients for optimal energy storage during the fall season.
When Should I Apply Winterizer?
Winterizer should be applied sometime during October or November. Because every lawn is different and temperature varies between climates, here are some things to look out for before you fertilize. If your lawn has already shown significant discoloration due to low temperatures, you should skip a winterizer application this year. Also, if you have sandy soil, you may want to avoid fertilizing during the fall because sandy soil is prone to leaching nitrogen which can contaminate ground water. If you have over-seeded a warm season grass with a cool season grass, you should not apply a fall fertilizer.
Is Winterizing Necessary?
Winterizing has the benefits of strengthening roots for winter, lengthening the time your grass stays green in winter and inducing an earlier green-up in spring. Winterizing is sometimes a controversial issue and some experts discourage it, but I believe it can and will benefit your lawn.
Winterizer Background
The Scotts® company single-handedly developed a niche in the fertilizer business known as "winterizer". According to Webster's Dictionary, the word "winterize" means to prepare for winter. Scotts® has really branded "winterizer" fertilizers and even had the name trademarked. Initially, Scotts® was denied by the Trademark Examining Attorney, but an appeal reversed the decision. Scotts® now uses the name Scotts® Turf Builder® WinterGuardT Fall Lawn Fertilizer for their product. As far as I know, this is the same as their original winterizer. The company carries more than 60% of the U.S. fall/winter fertilizer market, which makes Scotts® the most popular brand in the U.S.
What's the Difference?
scotts winterizer fertilizer bag
Scotts® WinterizerT
Fertilizer bags always have three numbers printed on the front which represent the percentage of the major active ingredients in the bag. They are always listed in this order: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A common lawn fertilizer formula is 29-3-4, which means the bag contains 29% nitrogen, 3% phosphorus, and 4% potassium. Winterizer fertilizers are essentially regular fertilizers with more potassium and slightly less nitrogen. Scotts® WinterGuardT has a formula of 22-3-14.
What Does It Do?
Potassium plays a big part in winterizing because it has been shown to improve cold tolerance and enhance the root systems of turfgrasses. Because lawns use nitrogen more than any other nutrient, winterizers still provide plenty of nitrogen for late fall even though "winterizer" is usually associated with potassium. Some experts believe that the winterizer application is the most important fertilizer application of the year. The extra benefit occurs because the roots absorb and store the nutrients as they grow until the ground freezes. Those nutrients are then available when temperatures warm in the spring for a quick green-up. Grass plants store up energy (or carbohydrates) in the fall for two main reasons. Blade growth slows down and less transpiration (or evaporation) occurs due to cooler air temperatures, but photosynthesis is still occurring. Scotts lawn care recommends a winterizer application can encourage grass plants to store more energy in the fall because temperatures are lower and blade growth is minimal. So, the intent of a winterizer application should be to provide nutrients for optimal energy storage during the fall season.
When Should I Apply Winterizer?
Winterizer should be applied sometime during October or November. Because every lawn is different and temperature varies between climates, here are some things to look out for before you fertilize. If your lawn has already shown significant discoloration due to low temperatures, you should skip a winterizer application this year. Also, if you have sandy soil, you may want to avoid fertilizing during the fall because sandy soil is prone to leaching nitrogen which can contaminate ground water. If you have over-seeded a warm season grass with a cool season grass, you should not apply a fall fertilizer.
Is Winterizing Necessary?
Winterizing has the benefits of strengthening roots for winter, lengthening the time your grass stays green in winter and inducing an earlier green-up in spring. Winterizing is sometimes a controversial issue and some experts discourage it, but I believe it can and will benefit your lawn.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
To Seed, or not to Seed
Seed, sod or hydroseed? This is the question people most frequently ask us. Hand seeding requires time, persistence, hard work and, often, re-seeding. Heavy rain can wash away your seed; sun and drought can burn it out; or a flock of birds can stop by for lunch. Sodding is the fastest but also the most expensive method. Hydroseeding, developed over 60 years ago when farmers needed to seed large areas at a low cost, is the smart approach. Today's hydroseeding equipment gives landscape contractors great versatility in seeding lawns large and small. Give hydroseeding a try today!
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Restoration/Revegetation Plan Guidelines
Choosing Revegetation Methods
You must first decide upon the most appropriate revegetation method for your site(s). There are
two approaches that can be used to restore the area to a more stable, desirable state: passive
revegetation and active revegetation. You may use active in one place (e.g. high on banks) and
passive in another (e.g. lower on the same banks).
Passive revegetation means replanting by natural processes. Nature itself becomes the restoration
agent! This method requires the least effort and expertise to restore native riparian vegetation.
Wind, rain, and high stream flows generally will carry seeds, plants, and sediment downstream,
where they will settle on the lower stream banks naturally. This process is periodic and may take
several years. Passive revegetation is unintrusive and fewer disturbances may result in less erosion.
It also ensures the introduction of local genetic stock, including both native and exotic plants. If
exotic pest plants dominate adjacent areas, the eradication site is at risk of being repopulated by
these invasive non-native plants.
Passive revegetation is most appropriate when:
• There are established native plants that provide seeds and propagules, either on-site or
upstream.
• Few non-native plants inhabit the site or exist upstream of the site
• The site does not contain a lot of disturbed, unvegetated sunny ground that could act as a
magnet for non-native pest plants.
• The soils are stable and at low risk of erosion.
• The site tends to flood each year, allowing nearby native plant material to settle and become
established.
If these conditions exist, then attempting active revegetation may be a waste of time and resources.
Active revegetation means planting by hand. It usually involves installing and maintaining an
irrigation system, and following a weed management schedule. It is often needed to revegetate the
higher, drier areas adjacent to streams that may not be affected by frequent flooding. It is generally
recommended that you postpone active revegetation until you have the most invasive pest plants
under control, since it may be difficult to avoid harming desirable plants during follow-up
herbicide treatments. Adequate control can take more than one season.
Active revegetation is most appropriate when:
• The site is located downstream from or near invasive plant species that rapidly invade sites
(such as broom, thistle, mustard, and hemlock). In such cases, prompt revegetation with natives
may be necessary to prevent invasion of your site.
• The soil or stream bank is unstable and at high risk of erosion.
Rev. 05/25/04
• A landowner strongly desires a privacy screen or is worried about bank erosion following pest
plant removal.
When an eradication site is on an unstable bank or a vulnerable site, revegetation alone may not
provide adequate soil or bank stabilization. Soil retention materials and stabilizing structures
may be needed to adequately prevent erosion and bank failure. In such cases, materials such as
erosion control fabrics and engineered structures should be considered before engaging in
invasive plant removal. Your Restoration/Revegetation Plan should include both proposed bank
stabilization and revegetation proposals, if needed. For structural changes, consult with a
professional. Some sources to consider consulting with are private engineering firms,
government agencies, Resource Conservation Districts, and landscape architects.
Restoration of native plant communities is an art and science unto itself. In planning active
revegetation, it is best to err on the side of caution and remember that work on your site will likely
have impacts downstream. Choose the simplest project that will still satisfy your goals. We
strongly encourage the use of locally grown native stock. Seek advice from experienced
professionals before you act, keeping in mind that people knowledgeable about native plants or
stream dynamics are not necessarily experts in revegetation, or visa versa. As a general rule, plant
most species in the fall and early winter to take advantage of winter rains and ensure survival.
Plants will need irrigation for the first one or two years.
You must first decide upon the most appropriate revegetation method for your site(s). There are
two approaches that can be used to restore the area to a more stable, desirable state: passive
revegetation and active revegetation. You may use active in one place (e.g. high on banks) and
passive in another (e.g. lower on the same banks).
Passive revegetation means replanting by natural processes. Nature itself becomes the restoration
agent! This method requires the least effort and expertise to restore native riparian vegetation.
Wind, rain, and high stream flows generally will carry seeds, plants, and sediment downstream,
where they will settle on the lower stream banks naturally. This process is periodic and may take
several years. Passive revegetation is unintrusive and fewer disturbances may result in less erosion.
It also ensures the introduction of local genetic stock, including both native and exotic plants. If
exotic pest plants dominate adjacent areas, the eradication site is at risk of being repopulated by
these invasive non-native plants.
Passive revegetation is most appropriate when:
• There are established native plants that provide seeds and propagules, either on-site or
upstream.
• Few non-native plants inhabit the site or exist upstream of the site
• The site does not contain a lot of disturbed, unvegetated sunny ground that could act as a
magnet for non-native pest plants.
• The soils are stable and at low risk of erosion.
• The site tends to flood each year, allowing nearby native plant material to settle and become
established.
If these conditions exist, then attempting active revegetation may be a waste of time and resources.
Active revegetation means planting by hand. It usually involves installing and maintaining an
irrigation system, and following a weed management schedule. It is often needed to revegetate the
higher, drier areas adjacent to streams that may not be affected by frequent flooding. It is generally
recommended that you postpone active revegetation until you have the most invasive pest plants
under control, since it may be difficult to avoid harming desirable plants during follow-up
herbicide treatments. Adequate control can take more than one season.
Active revegetation is most appropriate when:
• The site is located downstream from or near invasive plant species that rapidly invade sites
(such as broom, thistle, mustard, and hemlock). In such cases, prompt revegetation with natives
may be necessary to prevent invasion of your site.
• The soil or stream bank is unstable and at high risk of erosion.
Rev. 05/25/04
• A landowner strongly desires a privacy screen or is worried about bank erosion following pest
plant removal.
When an eradication site is on an unstable bank or a vulnerable site, revegetation alone may not
provide adequate soil or bank stabilization. Soil retention materials and stabilizing structures
may be needed to adequately prevent erosion and bank failure. In such cases, materials such as
erosion control fabrics and engineered structures should be considered before engaging in
invasive plant removal. Your Restoration/Revegetation Plan should include both proposed bank
stabilization and revegetation proposals, if needed. For structural changes, consult with a
professional. Some sources to consider consulting with are private engineering firms,
government agencies, Resource Conservation Districts, and landscape architects.
Restoration of native plant communities is an art and science unto itself. In planning active
revegetation, it is best to err on the side of caution and remember that work on your site will likely
have impacts downstream. Choose the simplest project that will still satisfy your goals. We
strongly encourage the use of locally grown native stock. Seek advice from experienced
professionals before you act, keeping in mind that people knowledgeable about native plants or
stream dynamics are not necessarily experts in revegetation, or visa versa. As a general rule, plant
most species in the fall and early winter to take advantage of winter rains and ensure survival.
Plants will need irrigation for the first one or two years.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Lawn Fertilizer
A healthy, vibrant lawn is a result of good care and attention to detail. Soil quality and the nutrients therein are important factors when maintaining a healthy lawn. Fertilizers are used to maintain or increase the soil's nutrients when it begins to run low. Selecting the appropriate fertilizer for the lawn is one of the details that can make or break the lawn's quality.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Hydraulic Seeding Solutions
We strive to prevent the loss of soil in the landscape, as well as to create beauty. With our plantings, we hope to encourage a strong net of roots to bind loose soil and a dense canopy of foliage to break the impact of falling water.
The single fastest way to cover bare ground with living plant material is to hydroseed it. Hydraulic seeding is a specialized niche in the green industry. A hydraulic seeding technician needs the skills of a chef to mix a slurry of perfect consistency and the hand of an airbrush artist to spray out a fine and even application.
Micke Santoro, owner of Southern California Hydroseed and Hydromulch, Inc., recognizes this. Experience has shown him that techniques that work well with an experienced applicator can be disastrous in the hands of a novice. Santoro teaches other industry professionals from all over the world, because he believes for each individual project well done the green industry as a whole benefits
The slurry is the foundation of every hydroseeding job, and the seed is the least of it. A typical mix, sufficient to cover a half acre, contains 1,000 pounds of wood fiber, 150 pounds of fertilizer, 75 pounds of binder and 3,000 gallons of water. The seed itself is a relatively minor weight, and the very last item to be placed in the tank.
Mixing seed, water and fertilizer together makes sense; the mystery items in the slurry to those of us who do not hydroseed are the fiber and binder. The wood fiber helps to disperse the seed evenly throughout the slurry during agitation and acts as a mulch after application. The binder is literally a glue. The stuff sets up pretty fast too, so any slurry unintentionally applied needs a light spray down with water right away to remove it.
Hydroseeding is an installation specialty that fulfills a variety of landscape needs: erosion control plantings, seasonal color, environmental mitigation and turf -- from residential lawns to golf courses. Proper care of a newly hydroseeded are can be summed up in two words: water it. But like very other aspect of hydraulic seeding, there's more to it than that. Hydroseeding lifts the glass of the greenhouse and spreads the seed flat over acres. The surface must be kept evenly must at all times until the seed germinates and the new plants have grown on for a minimum of two weeks -- not soggy, moist, and never, never dry. A new application will cut you no slack for Santa Anas or dead backup batteries in the clocks. Seeds that have begun the process of germination and then dry out, die.
A common complaint against hydraulic seed mixes is that they come on in a flash, but burn out and fade away just as quickly. A look beneath the fiber mulch, at the soil, provides an answer. Consider the cut and fill nightmares hydraulic seeders are asked to cloak. Hydroseeding is a technology for putting down seed, not a magic carpet. Soil deficiencies reveal themselves in the health of plants here, as they do in landscapes installed by every other method. The most vibrant, long-lived hydroseed applications are sprayed on good soil.
Most hydroseeding companies are specialty operations that work as subcontractors to landscape contractors. Very few traditional landscape companies dabble in hydraulic seeding along with the rest of their work. Even many of the largest companies hire subs rather than run their own rigs.
Why? Maybe it's the long apprenticeship necessary to develop good technicians. Maybe the constantly shifting focus of the hydroseeding market demands a specialist to stay on top of it.
New products for soil improvement are creating additional opportunities in hydraulic seeding. Blowing on a straw mulch is nothing new, but the applications of humus and gypsum are on the rise. One job site that called for a single application of slurry before, might now require two or more phases: humus and/or gypsum, the slurry, straw mulch and/or fiber matting.
Getting the soil covered before the rain comes to wash it away is a perennial problem in the Southwest -- a region with neither soil nor rain to spare, and a cataclysmic growth rate. Hydraulically seeded plant material, well applied and maintained after application, can become a solid carpet of erosion control within a month. If you look on the hydraulic seeding niche from the outside in, hang onto the business card of the best practitioner you know, because some day coming, you'll need it.
The single fastest way to cover bare ground with living plant material is to hydroseed it. Hydraulic seeding is a specialized niche in the green industry. A hydraulic seeding technician needs the skills of a chef to mix a slurry of perfect consistency and the hand of an airbrush artist to spray out a fine and even application.
Micke Santoro, owner of Southern California Hydroseed and Hydromulch, Inc., recognizes this. Experience has shown him that techniques that work well with an experienced applicator can be disastrous in the hands of a novice. Santoro teaches other industry professionals from all over the world, because he believes for each individual project well done the green industry as a whole benefits
The slurry is the foundation of every hydroseeding job, and the seed is the least of it. A typical mix, sufficient to cover a half acre, contains 1,000 pounds of wood fiber, 150 pounds of fertilizer, 75 pounds of binder and 3,000 gallons of water. The seed itself is a relatively minor weight, and the very last item to be placed in the tank.
Mixing seed, water and fertilizer together makes sense; the mystery items in the slurry to those of us who do not hydroseed are the fiber and binder. The wood fiber helps to disperse the seed evenly throughout the slurry during agitation and acts as a mulch after application. The binder is literally a glue. The stuff sets up pretty fast too, so any slurry unintentionally applied needs a light spray down with water right away to remove it.
Hydroseeding is an installation specialty that fulfills a variety of landscape needs: erosion control plantings, seasonal color, environmental mitigation and turf -- from residential lawns to golf courses. Proper care of a newly hydroseeded are can be summed up in two words: water it. But like very other aspect of hydraulic seeding, there's more to it than that. Hydroseeding lifts the glass of the greenhouse and spreads the seed flat over acres. The surface must be kept evenly must at all times until the seed germinates and the new plants have grown on for a minimum of two weeks -- not soggy, moist, and never, never dry. A new application will cut you no slack for Santa Anas or dead backup batteries in the clocks. Seeds that have begun the process of germination and then dry out, die.
A common complaint against hydraulic seed mixes is that they come on in a flash, but burn out and fade away just as quickly. A look beneath the fiber mulch, at the soil, provides an answer. Consider the cut and fill nightmares hydraulic seeders are asked to cloak. Hydroseeding is a technology for putting down seed, not a magic carpet. Soil deficiencies reveal themselves in the health of plants here, as they do in landscapes installed by every other method. The most vibrant, long-lived hydroseed applications are sprayed on good soil.
Most hydroseeding companies are specialty operations that work as subcontractors to landscape contractors. Very few traditional landscape companies dabble in hydraulic seeding along with the rest of their work. Even many of the largest companies hire subs rather than run their own rigs.
Why? Maybe it's the long apprenticeship necessary to develop good technicians. Maybe the constantly shifting focus of the hydroseeding market demands a specialist to stay on top of it.
New products for soil improvement are creating additional opportunities in hydraulic seeding. Blowing on a straw mulch is nothing new, but the applications of humus and gypsum are on the rise. One job site that called for a single application of slurry before, might now require two or more phases: humus and/or gypsum, the slurry, straw mulch and/or fiber matting.
Getting the soil covered before the rain comes to wash it away is a perennial problem in the Southwest -- a region with neither soil nor rain to spare, and a cataclysmic growth rate. Hydraulically seeded plant material, well applied and maintained after application, can become a solid carpet of erosion control within a month. If you look on the hydraulic seeding niche from the outside in, hang onto the business card of the best practitioner you know, because some day coming, you'll need it.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Why Hydro-Sprig or Hydro-Stolonize?
The effort to construct and put premium quality golf courses into play quickly has spurred the use of modified hydraulic planting equipment to apply live sprigs (stolons) and a nurturing wood fiber blanket, in one step.
Hydraulic planters (hydro-mulchers and hydro-seeders), familiar to most for their ability to quickly and evenly plant seeded grasses, wildflowers and a wide variety of erosion controlling plants, have found an important new use in the planting of warm season grasses from vegetative material (sprigs or stolons).
Mechanical sprig planters, though still in wide use, appear ineffective and are severely limited when compared to the capabilities of a hydraulic planter.
Some of the limitations and disadvantages of mechanical planters are:
High degree of fill-in and hand planting required.
Disturbance of finished grade, rocks lifted, ruts left.
High potential for damage to irrigation and cart paths.
Low survivability of sprigs, row crop planting pattern.
Unable to service berms and rolling features adequately.
Often limited by soil moisture and type.
Hydraulic planting, specifically "hydro-sprigging", permits the greatest degree of flexibility and produces vastly superior results, due in large part to the inclusion of 100% Wood Fiber Mulch to hold sprigs in place, retain soil moisture and protect the sprigs from the elements until established.
Some of the key advantages of hydro-sprigging are:
Unaffected by terrain, soil moisture or obstacles.
Produces even planting with higher survivability.
Extension hoses allow planting up to 1,000 feet away.
No damage to irrigation, cart paths or finished grade.
Touch-up and hand work not required; neat and clean.
Lower costs of grow-in, faster time-to-play.
A slurry of sprigs, water, wood fiber mulch, fertilizer and any desired additives is evenly applied to the soil surface, usually by a hand-held hose. The operator has a high degree of control and is able to assure even coverage of the most unusual terrain or features, keep sprigs out of the traps, and follow precise markings where a variety of grasses are to be used.
Once in place, this blanket of sprigs and wood fiber mulch resists the erosion impact of irrigation and rainfall. The blanket serves to moderate soil temperatures and promote spreading growth better than hot soil alone. More sprigs survive to provide a quicker fill-in. Soil activity, fertilizer and constant watering gradually decompose the wood fibers as the turf knits together.
Hydraulic planters (hydro-mulchers and hydro-seeders), familiar to most for their ability to quickly and evenly plant seeded grasses, wildflowers and a wide variety of erosion controlling plants, have found an important new use in the planting of warm season grasses from vegetative material (sprigs or stolons).
Mechanical sprig planters, though still in wide use, appear ineffective and are severely limited when compared to the capabilities of a hydraulic planter.
Some of the limitations and disadvantages of mechanical planters are:
High degree of fill-in and hand planting required.
Disturbance of finished grade, rocks lifted, ruts left.
High potential for damage to irrigation and cart paths.
Low survivability of sprigs, row crop planting pattern.
Unable to service berms and rolling features adequately.
Often limited by soil moisture and type.
Hydraulic planting, specifically "hydro-sprigging", permits the greatest degree of flexibility and produces vastly superior results, due in large part to the inclusion of 100% Wood Fiber Mulch to hold sprigs in place, retain soil moisture and protect the sprigs from the elements until established.
Some of the key advantages of hydro-sprigging are:
Unaffected by terrain, soil moisture or obstacles.
Produces even planting with higher survivability.
Extension hoses allow planting up to 1,000 feet away.
No damage to irrigation, cart paths or finished grade.
Touch-up and hand work not required; neat and clean.
Lower costs of grow-in, faster time-to-play.
A slurry of sprigs, water, wood fiber mulch, fertilizer and any desired additives is evenly applied to the soil surface, usually by a hand-held hose. The operator has a high degree of control and is able to assure even coverage of the most unusual terrain or features, keep sprigs out of the traps, and follow precise markings where a variety of grasses are to be used.
Once in place, this blanket of sprigs and wood fiber mulch resists the erosion impact of irrigation and rainfall. The blanket serves to moderate soil temperatures and promote spreading growth better than hot soil alone. More sprigs survive to provide a quicker fill-in. Soil activity, fertilizer and constant watering gradually decompose the wood fibers as the turf knits together.
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